Atal Tunnel

The main thing. From Manali, drive to the south portal at Dhundi, join the queue, pass through in 15 to 20 minutes at the posted speed, and emerge in Lahaul at Teling near Sissu. You cannot stop inside and you cannot photograph inside, so the drive itself is the point. Keep headlights on, stay in lane, avoid overtaking. On the other side, pull over in a safe spot past the north portal for the first photograph of Lahaul. Do not stop within the restricted zone near either portal, the Lahaul and Spiti administration has clamped down on stopping, parking, and gathering near the portals for safety reasons.

Photography and videography are banned from 200 metres before the south portal to the end of the tunnel, and the Lahaul and Spiti administration has designated a wider restricted zone around both portals where stopping, parking, and commercial activity are prohibited. The cleanest shots are from a few hundred metres back on the approach roads, outside this zone, where you can frame the portal with the surrounding peaks. Early morning and late afternoon light work best. Park safely off the tarmac and do not block traffic or trigger security attention near the entrance.

A few small dhabas and tea stalls operate in the open ground along the approach roads, well outside the restricted zone near the portals, and more on the Lahaul side near Teling and Sissu. Simple chai, Maggi, omelette, dal rice. On the Lahaul side, the view from the dhabas is the one most people go for, with the brown rock faces and the Chandra river below. Note that unauthorised stalls right near the portals have been cleared in recent years as part of the administration's safety enforcement.

Since 2022, the Border Roads Organisation runs guided tours of the tunnel for visitors who want to understand the engineering and technical aspects from inside. Tickets are booked online at the BRO's official portal (marvels.bro.gov.in) for roughly Rs 100 per person. Groups of 10 to 50 tourists per slot, with two daily slots at the south portal. A trained guide walks you through sections of the tunnel that are otherwise off limits. Children under 12 are generally complimentary. Educational tours for students are also available, conducted by BRO officers. This is the only way to legally stop inside and look at the tunnel infrastructure up close. Availability and pricing may change, confirm on the BRO website before your visit.

The practical purpose of crossing the tunnel. A 1 to 2 night trip to Sissu from Manali is the natural way to treat the tunnel as part of a wider plan. See the Sissu Waterfall across the Chandra, walk to Sissu Lake and the helipad viewpoint above it, spend a night at a village homestay. This is a far better version of a Manali holiday than a day trip that only turns around at the tunnel.

Beyond Sissu, the tunnel unlocks a real Spiti circuit that used to be impossible until June each year. The usual plan is to drive through the tunnel, continue via Koksar and the Gramphu junction to Batal and Chandratal, cross Kunzum Pass into Spiti, and return via Shimla and Kinnaur. Summer and early autumn only, the Gramphu to Batal stretch remains closed under snow for most of winter. A proper circuit takes 6 to 8 days.

A popular stretch for motorcycle riders, and the south portal queue is often heavy with Royal Enfield groups in peak season. Ride with proper gear, thermals, gloves, windproof jacket, even in summer, because the temperature at 3,060 metres drops fast once the sun dips behind the ridge. Inside the tunnel it is cooler and the surface is smooth. Do not stop, do not film with a helmet camera inside. Ride in pairs or groups rather than solo.

Even in peak winter, the tunnel itself stays open. Many travellers from Manali drive up specifically in January and February to see the snow covered Lahaul landscape just past the north portal, which is impossible without the tunnel. Dress for real cold, night temperatures at the portal drop well below freezing, and the approach road on the Kullu side can be icy. Carry chains for your tyres if self driving, and check the road status before you leave Manali. In deep winter, the administration sometimes restricts access to 4x4 vehicles with snow chains only, and travel is advised only between roughly 10 AM and 5 PM.

If you have a Rohtang Pass permit and the pass is open (generally May to October), one of the best single day plans from Manali is to go up via the old Gulaba and Marhi road to Rohtang Pass, descend on the other side to Koksar and Gramphu, then return to Manali through the Atal Tunnel. You see both the old route and the new one, the contrast between the two is striking, and you cover the Lahaul landscape from both angles. Check road status for both routes on the morning of your drive.