Mughal Gardens Srinagar

Nishat Bagh is the one to see if you only have time for one garden. Built in 1633 by Asif Khan, the brother of Nur Jahan, it has 12 terraces stepping down toward Dal Lake, each at a different level with water channels connecting them. The garden is the largest of the three in terms of visual impact, and the view from the upper terraces, looking down over the fountain line toward the lake with the Pir Panjal range in the background, is the single best composed landscape in Srinagar. Chinar trees line the central axis, and in October, their gold and red canopy against the blue lake is the image that ends up on most people's phone wallpapers. Walk the full length from bottom to top. The upper terraces are quieter and the view improves with every level.

Shalimar Bagh is the garden with the strongest story. Built in 1619 by Emperor Jahangir for his wife Nur Jahan, and extended by Shah Jahan around 1630, it covers about 31 acres and was originally the royal garden of the Mughal court in Kashmir. The layout has four terraces, with the innermost terrace historically reserved for the emperor and empress. The water channels here are the most elaborate of the three gardens, with chini khanas (arched niches behind the waterfalls) that were lit with oil lamps during Mughal gatherings. The garden sits slightly further from the main tourist circuit than Nishat, which means it is often a bit quieter. A light and sound show runs during the peak tourist season (roughly May to October), usually in the evening. Check locally for timings and availability.

Chashme Shahi is the smallest of the three, built in 1632 by Shah Jahan around a natural spring. The name means "Royal Spring," and the spring water, which comes from the Zabarwan hills above, is still flowing. Locals consider the water to have health properties, and you will see people filling bottles at the source. The garden itself is compact and takes about 20 minutes to walk through. It is quieter than the other two and makes a good final stop if you are visiting all three. The view of Dal Lake from here is partially obscured by trees, but the garden has a more intimate, less touristy feel.

Pari Mahal is not technically a Mughal garden, but it is right above Chashme Shahi and most visitors combine the two. Originally a Buddhist monastery, it was converted into a school of astrology by Mughal prince Dara Shikoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan. What remains is a six terrace ruin on a hilltop with the best panoramic view of Dal Lake and Srinagar from any garden in the area. The climb from Chashme Shahi is short but steep. If you go, go at sunset. The view of the lake going dark while the city lights come on is worth the effort. Entry is around Rs 25. It is illuminated at night and visible from across the lake.

The standard way to cover all three gardens plus Pari Mahal is by auto or taxi from Boulevard Road. The route runs east along the lake shore: Chashme Shahi first (smallest, get it done), then Pari Mahal (the climb), then Nishat Bagh (the highlight), then Shalimar Bagh (the finale). Or reverse it, starting with Shalimar and ending at Nishat for the sunset light on the terraces. Auto fare for the circuit is roughly Rs 400 to 600. A taxi costs Rs 800 to 1,200 for the half day. You can also reach Nishat Bagh by shikara from Dal Lake, which adds a nice transition from water to garden.