Ladakh has two lakes that keep coming up in every trip conversation: Pangong and Tso Moriri. Both are stunningly beautiful. Both need permits.
Both sit at a serious altitude. And most travellers planning a Ladakh trip spend way too long trying to figure out which one to pick.
Here is the honest answer from Travel Coffee that has planned hundreds of Ladakh trips: the right lake depends entirely on your travel style, how many days you have, and how well your body handles altitude. This guide breaks it all down so you can decide quickly and plan well.
Pangong is usually the better pick for first-time Ladakh travellers, shorter trips of 6 to 7 days, and anyone who wants that iconic blue-lake photo that has been all over social media since 3 Idiots. It is easier to access, has more accommodation options, and fits neatly into standard Ladakh itineraries.
Tso Moriri is the better choice if you want fewer people, more silence, real wildlife, and a lake that feels like it belongs to another century. It sits slightly higher and the route is more remote, but the experience is worth every extra kilometre.
If you have 10 or more days in Ladakh and your body has adjusted well to the altitude, covering both is genuinely possible. Most people regret not doing both when they had the time.
This is not just a question of which lake looks prettier. Both are beautiful. The real difference is the kind of trip each one gives you.
Pangong is big, dramatic, instantly recognisable, and popular. The blue shifts in colour depending on the time of day; steel grey in the morning, vivid turquoise by noon, almost violet near sunset. It is the kind of lake that makes you stop mid-sentence and stare.
Tso Moriri is quieter, deeper in the Changthang plateau, and surrounded by a stillness that Pangong simply cannot offer anymore.
There is barely any development around it. The Korzok village on its banks has a monastery, a handful of homestays and camps, and very little else.
In our experience planning Ladakh trips, travellers who go to Pangong often come back saying "it was beautiful but busier than I expected." Travellers who go to Tso Moriri almost always say "I wish I had known about this one earlier."
For most people on their first Ladakh trip, Pangong wins. It is easier to loop into a standard Leh to Nubra to Pangong circuit that most operators offer. The roads are more travelled, the camps are better set up, and there is backup if something goes wrong.
Tso Moriri sits further from Leh, the route via Chumathang is rougher, and the infrastructure at Korzok is more basic. That is not a bad thing, but for someone who has never been to Ladakh, it adds uncertainty.
That said, if you are a repeat Ladakh traveller and have already seen Pangong, Tso Moriri is not just worth it, it is where you should have gone the second time.
In our experience, it converts people completely. First-timers who are told about it by a friend who has already been almost always choose it without hesitation.
Honest answer: both. Different honest answer: it depends on what moves you.
Pangong's scale is hard to match. It stretches around 134 km total, and even the Indian portion feels vast. The colour contrast between the blue water, brown mountains, and clear sky creates photographs that look almost edited.
The famous rock from 3 Idiots, the shifting colours across the day, the sheer weight of the landscape, Pangong earns its reputation.
Tso Moriri does not try to compete on drama. It wins on atmosphere. The lake is about 28 km long and sits surrounded by the Changthang plateau with mountains reflecting off water that barely has a ripple.
On a still morning, it looks like someone placed a mirror in the middle of nowhere. Black-necked cranes cross overhead. Bar-headed geese land near the shore. The silence is real.
We always say the same thing to travellers who ask us to pick one: Pangong gives you a moment. Tso Moriri gives you a feeling that stays with you longer.
Tso Moriri, without question. Pangong has grown significantly in tourist traffic over the last decade. July and August especially see serious camp density on the Spangmik side, with vehicles lining the road and camps sitting close enough together that you can hear your neighbours' music.
Tso Moriri still has the kind of silence that is genuinely rare. The isolation of the Changthang plateau acts as a natural filter. Travellers who make the effort to reach Korzok are generally there because they want the experience, not just the photograph.
For sunrise and sunset photography especially, Tso Moriri is in a different league. The light hits the water without a crowd of people in the foreground.
The reflections are sharp and clear. You can sit at the edge for an hour and feel like you have the whole place to yourself.
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The Leh to Pangong route via Chang La pass is the most travelled mountain road in Ladakh. It is rough in parts, and Chang La at 5,360 m is no joke, but the road is used by enough vehicles that conditions are reasonably known.
Drive time from Leh to Spangmik is typically 5 to 6 hours depending on stops and traffic at the pass.
The Leh to Tso Moriri route via Chumathang runs about 213 km and takes roughly 6 to 7 hours. The road passes through the Indus Valley and then climbs through more remote terrain toward Korzok.
It is paved in sections and rough in others. The Chumathang hot springs route is generally accessible throughout the year from Leh.
What most tourists get wrong about Tso Moriri is assuming that because the Chumathang route is technically accessible, the road will be smooth and fast. It is not.
Sections after Sumdo can be slow, and water crossings near the plateau are not uncommon. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended. This is not the route to attempt in a sedan.
Tso Moriri sits higher than Pangong. The altitude of Tso Moriri is reported as roughly 4,522 m to 4,595 m depending on the source. Pangong sits at around 4,225 m to 4,320 m depending on the source. The difference is real, and at those altitudes, even 300 to 400 metres matters.
The Leh administration has a clear advisory: all tourists arriving in Leh should undergo at least 48 hours of acclimatization before heading to higher altitude areas. This is not a suggestion. It is the single most common reason trips go wrong.
In our experience, travellers who push straight from Leh to Tso Moriri without proper acclimatization almost always have a rough first night at Korzok.
Headaches, nausea, and breathlessness are common. Stay those two nights in Leh first. Walk slow. Drink water. Then head out.
Pangong is slightly more forgiving because of the lower altitude, but the same rule applies. Do not rush to the lake.
Pangong is commonly cited as around 145 km from Leh to the lake stretch. Keep in mind the distance to the lake and the distance to a specific stay point like Spangmik will differ slightly. Driving time is typically 5 to 6 hours depending on Chang La traffic and your pace.
Tso Moriri via Chumathang is approximately 213 km from Leh, with a drive time of around 6 to 7 hours. Via Tso Kar, the distance is approximately 233 km and takes longer, but the Tso Kar stopover makes it a more rewarding full-day drive.
The practical point here is that Tso Moriri requires more driving and therefore more time. If you only have a single night to allocate to one lake, Pangong is the more efficient choice. If you can spare an extra day, Tso Moriri is absolutely worth it.
Pangong's Spangmik stretch has the most accommodation variety in the Changthang region. You will find tented camps of various quality levels, some permanent camp setups, and a few homestays.
The better camps have proper beds, attached toilets, and decent food. The area is clearly more developed for tourism.
Tso Moriri's Korzok is a traditional village with a functioning monastery. Stays here are mainly homestays and a small number of basic camps. The food is home-cooked and simple.
There is no room service, no proper attached bathrooms in most places, and very little by way of amenities. But there is something about waking up in a home in Korzok with the lake visible outside the window that no camp at Pangong can replicate.
The eco-sensitive and conservation reserve status of Tso Moriri means development around it is intentionally restricted.
All stays are routed through Korzok, which keeps the area clean and limits visitor pressure on the lake itself. This is the right call, even if it limits your options.
What we always tell travellers heading to Korzok: confirm your stay before you go. Do not count on landing there and finding a room easily, especially in July and August.
For classic Ladakh lake photography: wide shots, dramatic colours, blue water against brown peaks, Pangong is the more immediately rewarding choice. The scale of the lake and the colour shifts make it easier to get a striking shot even without much technical skill.
For wildlife photography and birdwatching, Tso Moriri is in a different category entirely. The lake is a Ramsar-listed wetland and part of a conservation reserve. Black-necked cranes and bar-headed geese are regularly seen here.
The open Changthang plateau around the lake also supports kiang (wild Tibetan ass) and sometimes wolves at a distance.
For travellers specifically interested in birdwatching or wildlife, Tso Moriri is genuinely one of the best sites in the Indian Himalayas.
Pangong has birds too, but the volume of tourist activity reduces wildlife sightings significantly, especially in peak season.
Our honest recommendation for photographers: spend a night at each if you can. Pangong for the dramatic midday colours. Tso Moriri for the stillness, the wildlife, and the pre-dawn reflections.
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Yes, but you need time and a proper plan. On a 10 to 12 day Ladakh itinerary with good acclimatization in Leh, covering both is very doable.
The most common approach is Leh to Nubra Valley to Pangong, then down toward Tso Moriri, and back to Leh.
There are direct offbeat routes between Pangong and Tso Moriri that avoid going back to Leh. These routes exist and some experienced drivers know them. But they are long, remote, and very rough.
They are not routes for first-time Ladakh travellers or for anyone on a tight schedule. If your driver says he does not know the route, believe him and take the main roads.
For travellers with 6 days or less, choose one lake and do it well rather than rushing both. A hurried visit to Tso Moriri after a rushed Pangong visit helps no one.
If you want help mapping out a Ladakh route that includes both lakes with proper pacing, our Ladakh tour packages are built around exactly this kind of acclimatization-first planning.
If you are a first-time Ladakh traveller with 6 to 8 days, go to Pangong. Do the Nubra Valley loop, cross Chang La, and spend a night at Spangmik. You will not regret it.
If you are coming back to Ladakh and have already seen Pangong, Tso Moriri is the obvious next step. Do the Chumathang route, stay in Korzok, and spend two nights if you can.
If you are travelling with family and older members, Pangong is easier to manage. The road is more predictable, the accommodation is better, and the overall setup is more convenient.
If you are a photographer or birdwatcher, Tso Moriri should be on your list regardless of whether it is your first or fifth Ladakh trip. The quality of wildlife and the calm around the lake is hard to match anywhere in northern India.
If you are a solo traveller looking for a genuine offbeat experience, Tso Moriri is where you want to be. We have sent many solo travellers there and the feedback is consistent — it is the Ladakh lake they will recommend to everyone.
If you want the iconic India bucket-list lake photo that you grew up seeing in travel magazines, go to Pangong. There is no shame in that. It is iconic for good reason.
You might also want to look at our Spiti Valley packages if you are considering combining Ladakh with a high-altitude Himachal circuit, the landscapes complement each other beautifully and the Chandratal lake adds a strong third comparison to this debate.
Both Pangong and Tso Moriri fall within zones that require visitors to complete the official Ladakh tourism payment process.
Domestic tourists can travel after completing the online payment on the official Ladakh tourist portal and showing the payment slip at checkposts. You do not need to go to the DM office separately if you are an Indian national.
The fee is reported to include an environment fee, a wildlife fee, and a Red Cross fund contribution. Third-party sources in 2026 often cite the environment fee as ₹400 per person, the wildlife fee as around ₹20 per person per day, and the Red Cross amount as ₹50.
However, there is conflicting reporting on the Red Cross amount and whether it applies in all cases. Check the official portal before your trip for exact current amounts.
Foreign tourists should note that certain passport categories require additional protected area approvals. Confirm the requirements well before your travel date.
The 48-hour Leh acclimatization advisory applies for both lakes. This is especially important for Tso Moriri given the slightly higher altitude.
Ignoring this is the single most common mistake that ruins lake visits. A pounding headache at 4,500 m with no medical facility nearby is not a good situation.
Also: carry cash. ATMs in Leh work. ATMs near either lake effectively do not exist.
For shorter or first-time Ladakh trips, go to Pangong. It is easier, more connected, and gives you the most iconic Ladakh lake experience with the least logistical complexity.
For quieter, more offbeat travel, Tso Moriri is the better choice. The effort required to get there is real, but the experience on the other side of that effort is genuinely rare.
For 10-plus day Ladakh itineraries with proper acclimatization, do both. Plan Pangong as part of the Nubra loop and route Tso Moriri on your way back toward Leh or as a dedicated add-on. Both lakes in one trip is the version we recommend whenever the time allows.
The one thing we would say to everyone: do not skip the acclimatization days in Leh. The lakes will still be there on Day 3. Your body needs those first two days more than the itinerary does.
Before you go, also check our Chandratal opening dates and road status guide if you are combining Ladakh with a Spiti circuit and want to understand how all three high-altitude lakes fit into one trip.
We plan Ladakh and Himachal trips with acclimatization built in from the start, not added as an afterthought. Whether you want Pangong, Tso Moriri, or both, we can help you build an itinerary that fits your pace, budget, and comfort level.
Browse our popular tours to see routes that include both lakes, or get in touch to talk through a custom itinerary. We know these roads well.
We drive them every season. And we would rather help you plan it right than hear about it going wrong.
Also worth reading if you are going as a solo woman: our guide on solo female safety in Spiti Valley covers a lot of practical ground that applies to Ladakh travel too.
